Onan generator manual free download

It is easier to bond than to try to unbonded? What the manufactures should do is to put a simple switch to connect neutral and ground And mark it RV use right unbounded left. I myself will use your plug on my Generator. Also I am not an electrician and only think I am right. Happy Camping! Hi, Just wondering if the larger Inverter generators which can make v or two v circuits need both circuits bonded using 2 of these plugs?

No, a single bonding plug will do this. My watt Coleman generator vintage did NOT have a neutral to ground bond as it came from the factory. Since this generator is used almost exclusively in the field powering sound equipment, I modified it to add a Neutral to Ground bond in the generator, and to properly ground the ground terminal of the twist lock power outlet.

I too once saw a list of portable generators that showed which models had internal neutral to ground bonds and which did not. Those that provided the bond seemed to be exclusively models sold for running power tools on job sites. Yeah, I saw that same list of portable generators a few months ago, and the majority of portable generators appeared to be unbonded. However, in distributed power systems such as a music stage, this allows one single amplifier on stage with a hot-to-earth short, to AC bias the safety ground of the entire system.

I really think that all outside performance stages should comply with standard G-N and earthing codes, which is the only way to guarantee the safety of the performers from electric shock.

Our question is — should we use the earth stake to ground the case, or should it be left floating? Is it different being an inverter generator, rather than mains supply? All this stuff gets more confusing the more you try and read about it. Some people say of course you should ground it, and others say it would be more dangerous to ground it! It sounds like your strange meter reading is due to the neutral floating, and from what Honda tells me, ALL of their inverter generators have an unbonded neutral.

In the USA a ground rod can have up to ohms impedance and considered to be within code compliance. But you really need to confirm this with an electrician if possible. So, the generator forms its own completely separate system. I measured the resistance across the ground-neutral while it was off! It had a plastic casing, no ground stake, but did have a bonded neutral, and GFCI.

My impression is this one is correct and safer. Not grounding it is ok, as long as nothing connected to it is earth grounded? Did not want too look bad if Y2K was real!!! I have used mine since with no problems. I am impressed there is still one working or was. Briggs 10HP and 5K branded Coleman 5 gallon poly gas tank.

I wish they would go back to those tanks no rust ever.. This is an issue that I have researched and until I found this page I was pretty lost. The problem I have is with a Yamaha efise which is hard mounted to the frame of my travel trailer. When the generator is connected to the trailer things change. This is an inverter generator and I believe it has a floating neutral. The problem is that my gfci outlets in the trailer will not stay set when running on generator.

They work for a while but then they stop and cannot be reset. The non-gfci outlets work fine. When testing both the outlets on the generator and the functioning non-gfci outlets in the trailer I get some strange readings: Hot-ground V, Hot-neutral 84V, ground-neutral 84V. So i figured I had a floating neutral and built a plug exactly as you described.

I shut down the generator and plugged it into one of the outlets. I started the generator which ran well but the AC light was not lit and I had a lit overload lamp. I shut it down and unplugged the bonding plug. Waited about ten minutes and restarted the generator. It ran well and AC light lit, overload light not lit. Tested power again and have same result as above. I have an idea what this might be, but need to confirm a few things with you first.

My direct email is mike noshockzone. I am having trouble finding out if my generator test figures are correct. I have a Yamaha inverter generator efise hard mounted to my RV frame. The voltage readings are as follows this is on the outlets on the generator and the regular non-gfci outlets in the trailer when it is connected via the 30 amp RV power plug to the generator : Hot-ground V Hot-neutral 84V Neutral-ground 84V.

When the generator is disconnected and I am on shore power via the same RV power cord in a 30amp receptacle at home the readings on the RV non-gfci outlets I get this: Hot-ground V Hot-neutral V Ground-neutral 0V. They cannot be reset. Is this a floating neutral? I made up a kludge plug per your instructions and plugged it into the generator. When I started it the motor ran well but I had no AC indicator light and an overload light.

I stopped the generator and removed the kludge plug. I waited 10 minutes and restarted the generator and my AC light came back on and the overload light was off. Tested again with meter and got same voltages as above from plugs on generator. Have new Ryobi inverter generator with floating neutral. Does anyone know if your neutral-ground bond plug will work with this model inverter generator?

Is there a way to test the inverter generator to see if it is ok the use the N-G Bond plug? Just to be safe I would start up the generator without anything plugged in, then plug in the G-N bonding plug. Then plug in a 3-light outlet tester to see if it looks OK.

At that point, remove the 3-light tester and plug in your RV shore power plug. Where did you purchase this generator? Home Depot. This generator is to be connected plugged to a Reliance transfer switch that switches neutral that is a sub panel to my service panel at home.

So -I assume the neutral to ground bond has to be at the generator. My old generator bonded neutral ran everything great thru my transfer switch-old generator was too large in wattage ,heavy, loud and a gas guzzler.

Ryobi inverter is better for my needs- mainly gas boiler watts. I will try your instructions above. Actually, your home service panel should already have a Ground-Neutral-Earth bond in place, unless something is very wrong.

Generators for emergency backup powering of homes are NOT supposed to be G-N bonded, so as to avoid the double G-N bond that would take place if both the genny and the service panel were G-N bonded. Your transfer switch should not be able to separate your G-N-E bond in your service panel, only disconnect the appropriate loads and separate your generator power from the incoming power line.

So I think a non-bonded generator should work fine for powering your home, but need my G-N bonding plug for powering an RV. All house power systems have a ground rod to tie the safety ground to the earth, so a separate earth ground rod for the generator is not required.

Hi Mike. I want to be able power my home high efficiency gas boiler during a power outage. The boiler has a cord and is plugged into a 15 amp receptacle. The plate reads it uses 13 amps. How might I use an inverter type of generator to power just this load? I plan on running 12 or 10 ga ext cord. Length would be like 15 ft. A suitcase generator such as a Honda EU is an inverter generator with a very low THD inverter output that should easily run your furnace.

The advantage is that is can go into eco-throttle mode and save a lot of gasoline while your furnace is calling for much less amperage. However, you probably need to have your generator on a longer than ft cord to keep it far enough away from your house to avoid potential carbon monoxide poisoning.

You should be able to run a 12 gauge extension cord at least 50 feet without significant voltage drop from 13 amperes of current. This article was extremely informative, but I still have a question. I purchased and installed an interlock kit for my main panel, and installed an L twist lock power inlet box on the outside of the house. The four wires from the inlet box are connected in the house panel as follows: both hot wires to the double backfeed breaker, and the neutral and ground are connected to the grounding block in the panel.

In my troubleshooting, I disconnected the ground wire from the grounding block in the panel, and the generator runs fine. However, if I do the same routine with the generator in V mode, the overload light does not come on, and the generator runs fine. I am going to create a N-G plug as you suggested, and give it a try.

Just wanted to run my situation by you to see if you had any other suggestions or information. I must say that your article was the best at describing the Neutral Ground bonding issue. Any other info would be appreciated. Many thanks! In that case I had the reader use a ohm resistor instead of a solid jumper wire.

Yamaha and Honda customer support, are you listening out there? Thanks for the quick reply. Regarding the ohm resistor, it appears that they come in different wattages, such as 2w, 3w, 5w, 10w, etc. Should I use any one in particular?

I just ran the math again, and I must have recommended a 1, ohm resistor since a ohm resistor could need to dissipate watts under a worse case scenario. With a 1, ohm resistor, you could get away with a 10 ohm resistor. But let me think about this a bit before anyone builds one. Again, I could use a little support from Honda and Yamaha on this topic, but their customer service departments are of little help. I then asked how to un-bond the neutral, and they would not give any info.

So it looks like I have to figure out a way to either un-bond it, or install something that would switch the neutral. With the generator off, use a digital voltmeter to check the resistance ohms between the neutral and ground contacts in the output receptacle.

If it reads as being very close to zero ohms under a few tenths of an ohm at most then it is indeed bonded. A second test is to power up the generator and plug in a simple 3-light outlet tester to the amp receptacle. If it shows an open ground, then it most certainly has a floating neutral. I spoke with a manager about my neutral bonding question for the EF He said that the first version that was made in all of had a bonded neutral.

I told him of my situation with connecting the to my house via and interlock kit with a two pole breaker in my panel, and NOT using a transfer switch.

He said that if I ground the generator to the house grounding rod, I should have no issues. Any thoughts? Yes, bonding the generator frame to the house grounding rod is the correct thing to do. I believe your generator has a lug on the side for just such grounding. I also am having a problem with my generator running my furnace in my house. My generator probably has a floating ground also. I am considering moving the bonding wire to the L plug that goes into the generator, any problem with leaving the wire in the furnace adapter in place?

Thanks, after typing my last message I went back and reread the string and saw where it said only one bonding point. I moved the bonding wire to the L plug going into the generator, its a short adapter and would give me more options. After much research the info I found here was the easiest to understand and follow.

I ran the furnace on generator power for a couple hours yesterday as a test, every thing ran fine. I have come to the conclusion that 1 OSHA requires generators to be bonded! That phase only caused a 3-light tester to indicated H-N swap on the outlets in the RV, but otherwise worked. Apparently those parallel interconnect cables only have a small colored stripe to indicate the connection which is easy to get mixed up. Hi, I have an older Generac Portable generator exl.

I use an interlock system UL listed. The generator has a floating neutral which is what is needed since my elec panel is bonded neutral. I want to buy another portable generator but cannot find one with a floating neutral. Looking for at least a running unit.

I will also like to know how to remove the jumper wire which makes it a bonded neutral and turn it into a floating neutral. Hi Mike, Really, thank you for going out of your way for me. Just an FYI. Again, thank you. I am one of those people that likes to get to the bottom of an issue and your help is great. If you open one up, look should be able to identify it and remove it to unbond the G-N.

Hi Mike, Can you tell me if my Generac exl is a grounded neutral or a floating netural? If I need to remove the jumper wire to make it floating neutral do I also need to extend the green wire which coming off the mother board and now connected to a nut which grounds it and bring it over to the neutral side of the outlet that I just removed the jumper wire from in-order for the idle control to work?

Thanks, John. For instance, Even a 6, watt generator with a split-phase volt output will have a maximum of around 30 amps current. I know that the NEC worries about these currents showing up in the chassis of the generator, and potentially creating heating problems.

But even assuming a max of amps neutral current that would split to amps when combined with the safety ground wire, those amps should not be enough to cause any real heating problems or damage to the generator itself. Still, I would love to get some feedback from manufacturers on this issue. And if any of them would be generous enough to send me one of their products for experimentation, I would be glad to set up a demonstration and measure all currents under these G-N double bonding conditions.

Hi Mike, Thank you for your input. I want to double check. My Generac is a running watts and a surge. In you evaluation you stated under watts you found little to no problems running a bonded neutral portable generator to a bonded neutral electrical panel with this small of a unit correct? So we are still good? I am using a UL listed interlock system in the panel. I did find out where and how to remove the bond on the duplex outlet of my unit, very easy.

It would be safer overall Do you agree? Also my inlet box I remember has a green ground as well so are we bonded in 3 places? How does that work? Or you could just use my G-N bonding plug if need be. This is a great post with very valuable information. I need some help.

I just purchased a new Honda Euis Canadian model that has a floating neutral. I have checked the voltage output at the generator and I have found 63 volts on the neutral to ground and 64 volts on the hot to ground connection on the receptacle. Across the neutral and hot from the generator I have volts. I wanted to hook up a transfer switch in my main house panel. The 6 circuit transfer switch does not break the neutral. It only breaks the loads.

I am afraid of attaching this to my main panel. I know the main panel has a Bonded neutral. The transfer switch has a ground and neutral wire that requires attachment to the main panel neutral and ground connections.

I have read over the internet that connecting this generator to this configuration will blow the inverter. I tried contacting Honda and they referred me to the dealer who also did not have an answer. What is your opinion?

Can this be done? I also tried connecting the generator to my furnace that has a circuit board by using an extension cord. The furnace will not start in heating at all. Once I put generator power to the furnace plug that I attached to the furnace, I get an error code that states Reverse Polarity.

I believe this is due to the furnace not liking the power on the generator neutral side. I know this is also due to a floating neutral. Can I use the NG bond plug to correct this problem? I am just worried I am going to damage the generator.

If I am using the NG bond plug can I still plug other appliances into the generator at the same time? As delivered your Honda generator has NONE, which is fine for running portable tools such as a drill. So connecting the floating generator directly to your transfer switch is just fine and the neutral should now measure 0-volts to ground and volts to hot. In the second scenario of connecting it directly to your furnace with an extension cord, you have the opposite condition.

Just plug the G-N bonding plug into one of your generator outlets, and plug your extension cord into the other generator outlet. You should then measure the correct 0-volts from neutral to ground and volts from neutral to hot.

You can also plug in any other appliances to your generator with the bonding plug in place. And Honda tech support has told me off the record, of course that it should be fine.

But try using the G-N bonding plug first and measure your generator outlet with both a 3-light cube tester as well as a voltmeter. I just wanted to say thanks for your great help on my questions. I started my Honda EU today and plugged in a 3 light circuit tester. The circuit tester showed an open ground.

I made a GN Bond plug and plugged it into one of my receptacles on the generator. I used a multi-meter and found volts between neutral and the hot leg. From neutral to ground I have 0 volts and hot to ground is volts. This is the same power arrangement as my house.

I plugged in an extension cord and wired it into my furnace with the hot, neutral and ground wiring. I also plugged in my hot water tank which is gas fired but uses an Hot surface ignitor to ignite the fuel and they both worked flawlessly. This is without grounding my generator grounding stud. I now have heat when the power goes out. Can I make the GN Bond at the end of my extension cord instead of back at the generator? The end of the extension cord consists of a 2 X 4 metal box with a receptacle plug.

I would be making the GN Bond right at the receptacle screw terminals and then plugging right into the metal box receptacle.

I would think this would be the same as making it back at the generator, but I would have to use this extension cord for the generator only and not for other uses. Can I use a jumper wire to the generator ground stud to one of my metal electrical boxes as a ground or should I install a grounding rod? Do I really need to ground the generator stud?

My transfer switch is an older Generac Model I have not installed it yet but I will definitely send you some pictures of the install once the weather gets warmer. You can see this a very simple solution to what appears to be a complicated problem. As far as an extension cord with a G-N bond at the end, in theory that would work fine. However, as you note it can ONLY be used as a generator extension cord.

So if your generator has a unique twist-lock output plug, then that would be a practical solution. If not, then you should very carefully mark that extension cord for generator use only. People get confused, and plugging it into your house power would create a code violation by double bonding your house G-N. That in turn is connected to your house ground rod via the ground wire in the extension cord.

Since your hot-water heater and furnace are grounded via both wiring as well as plumbing, then your generator chassis should be grounded as well. To be sure, just meter between the frame of the generator and your service panel chassis. If it measures more than a few volts, then something else strange is going on, so contact me before adding your ground-chassis jumper wire. Mike, I got around to hooking up my Honda EUis to my main house electrical panel.

I just hooked it up temporarily with the transfer switch and I did not use the GN bond plug since my house panel is bonded. I put a few lights and a unit heater threw the transfer panel on only one circuit and I ran it for 15 mins. Everything looked great. Is there any long term harm with bonding these Honda inverter generators? Not sure why so many people say that bonding inverters will make them go up in smoke?? So my Generac running watt should be fine.

I still believe it would be safer to remove the jumper. Do you agree? Mike, thank you so very much, I noticed after reading some of your other evaluations for other people You mentioned back in April of you knew of a website which advised you which generator is bonded or floating. I believe that company is called Globel Power Products. Generlink Compatible Generator Guide. I am looking at Costco which sells the Champion and the Westingtonhouse ec portable units as a back up to my unit.

Any thoughts on either or, or none. Here is what I have done. I picked up a plug and bonded the neutral and ground together so that I could run my generator through the hardwired SurgeGuard. So the other day I decided to try out my new plug.

Just for grins I decided to start the generator and plug the RV in without the bonded plug plugged into the generator. Next, I got out my receptacle tester and checked all of the outlets inside and outside on the RV while running on generator power. Then I decided to create a couple other conditions. First, I plugged my bonded plug into the generator and then plugged the RV into the generator. So my underlying questions are: Should I be concerned that I can run on generator power without the bonding plug installed?

Just to be on the safe side should I always use the bonding plug? All of the outlets inside and outside indicate they are wired correctly when shore power is applied from my home or any other pedestal and also when I run the generator directly to the transfer switch by passing the SurgeGuard. This could be by a screw in the wall, wire with rubbed off insulation, or even a failed appliance such as a microwave transformer. Again, that needs to be identified and corrected since it can cause serious problems if you plug into a campground pedestal with reversed H-N polarity.

With your RV disconnected from all power, measure the resistance between the ground and neutral contacts of the shore power plug. And there should be no need for the G-N bonding plug any other time such as running power tools.

Please let me know what you find out. Mike, Thanks for the rapid response. We guarantee your satisfaction! All of our manuals are comb bound to lay flat and fold out as needed. We print on two sides if the original was two sided. Extra copies of schematic pages are included with Service Manuals. We use Canon equipment to provide the best possible image reproduction. Our half-tone photos look sharp and clear. AT A,11, A,22, AT A A,11,22, Model: wh Page 30 You can trust the replacement parts supplied by Kipor have been manufactured to the same production standard as the original parts.

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